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How Kohl’s Carved Out a Retail Niche

May 07, 2015 / 16:59

This episode features J.H. Baker, former president of Kohl's, discussing his career in retail, leadership strategies, and the evolution of Kohl's.

Baker shares his beginnings in retail after graduating from Wharton and serving in the army. He worked at Macy's for nine years, gaining experience in various roles, which prepared him for future leadership positions.

He recounts his time at Saks Fifth Avenue, where he helped regionalize the store's operations. Baker discusses the challenges he faced when Kohl's was struggling and how he identified opportunities for growth.

The conversation covers Kohl's transformation from a regional chain to a national retailer, emphasizing the importance of merchandising, advertising, and maintaining stock on basics. Baker highlights the partnerships that helped Kohl's expand.

Throughout the episode, Baker reflects on the retail landscape of the 1980s and the strategic decisions that led to Kohl's success.

TL;DR

J.H. Baker discusses his retail career and strategies that transformed Kohl's into a national retailer.

Episode

16:59
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our guest today is j.h baker the former
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president of kohl's mr baker thank you
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so much for joining us today you're very
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welcome
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now you joined
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kohl's as the president in 1986. that's
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correct we did a leveraged buyout in
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1986 and there were three partners uh
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bill kellogg john herman myself exactly
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along with financial partners naturally
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exactly but could you tell us a little
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bit about your career in retail before
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that and how it prepared you for
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leadership at kohl's okay
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i graduated from the wharton school and
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went into the army and after that i got
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out
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and i wasn't sure what i wanted to do so
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i took a couple aptitude tests and
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everything kind of pointed toward
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retailing and it's very funny my mother
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had a millinery store so when i was a
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young boy i used to take cash and and
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and bring up hats from the basement and
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stuff so maybe that's where i got
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started but i'm not sure that's true but
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but at least i i have in my bones and so
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uh
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i started a macy training program
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and uh worked my way up and stayed about
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nine years at macy's and did kind of
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everything and i looked back and was
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probably the best thing because i had
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every type of job i worked in the stores
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i worked on the floor worked in the
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stock room i was a buyer i was in store
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management so i really had the
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opportunity i learned a lot and it
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really helped me in my whole career even
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though in those days you moved a little
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slower everybody likes to get promoted
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faster but there weren't as many
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openings so people didn't leave so
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rapidly so it took a while to get there
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but but i had great training after that
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i went to a store named orbax
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and sometimes you get a break in life i
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went in as the administrative assistant
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to the president
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it was a gentleman called bob suslow and
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he became my mentor and sometimes you're
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very lucky that you have somebody that
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really takes an interest in you and you
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work very hard for him and but you learn
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so much from them and uh
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i learned probably in the six months it
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was incredible about merchandising and
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dealing with people and stuff and then i
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became
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a merchandise manager and i had three
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different areas i had started with
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dresses and
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juniors and
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sportswear
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and then bob went to famous bar in st
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louis that time it was a may company
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store today it's all macy's because
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macy's bought but at that time it was
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the premier store in st louis and
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probably still is but it's under macy's
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and i became a general merchandise
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manager and did that for a few years
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and then bob
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became president of saks fifth avenue
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and i came back to my home new york i
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mean i did follow him around
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and my first job there which was really
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interesting i was the first director of
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stores at saks before it used to report
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to the chairman
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and it wasn't really set up it was
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they'd have a you know meeting once a
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year they'd do the reviews but that was
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it
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and we actually regionalized sacs and
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that's what they are today it's
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regionalized and
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and uh what we did in 1977 exist today
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at sacs and most retailers so that was
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that was quite an accomplishment and uh
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was a little frustrating at times
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because none of them were involved in
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merchandising and i'm a merchant
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but we helped with that too we got
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merchants into the stores
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then i wanted to get back in
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merchandising so i became a general
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merchandise manager and i had sportswear
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cosmetics and juniors
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i don't want to say it's the glory is
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only of sax i mean i i would imagine sax
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will be good today but we had incredible
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talent uh people a whole group of us
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that became presidents and chairmans of
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companies and we just were picking up 20
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a day and it was it was a phenomenal fun
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time to be there and you know we had
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people like roger farah who's also a
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wharton graduate who's went on to become
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president of ralph lauren and now uh
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tory burch and other jobs and and bert
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taske had a neiman's arthur madness had
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his seers and on and on we all worked
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together so it was like really a
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phenomenal thing
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then bob
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took over as head of battus the whole
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retail division i went in to work in
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corporate which is not what i wanted to
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do so then i went and worked and became
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a head of especially store division and
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also the corporate buying
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and then in 1986 badis decided they
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wanted to divest themselves of retailing
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they're basically a tobacco company and
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and british american tobacco uh in in
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england and the u.s part that's how it
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spatus was in louisville kentucky
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and so at the time um
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the only thing they kept was uh sacks
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marshall fields and thimbles one of the
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i think they kept that because i had a
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three-year contract i don't know
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maybe they didn't want to pay me out i
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it's funny but i had like 400 people
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reporting to me at the corporate buying
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office and they were all going to be
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let go
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and it was a strange what happened was
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very strange they called us in on a
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sunday
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somehow women's wear daily got the news
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that they were going to do this but they
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never told any of us so they had to make
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the announcement sunday then we had to
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go in front of our people on monday and
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tell them this was happening before they
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read it in the newspaper but there was
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no severance set up yet you know they
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had nothing arranged
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so it's funny i went to my boss who ran
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batters
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retail who was also fired arnold
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harrison
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and and i said i'm not going to fire
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anybody i can keep anybody on who's
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essential i'm just going to get him jobs
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he said do whatever you have to do
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and it took me six or seven months but i
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got 98 of them jobs and so it's probably
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one of the best things i've done be it
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was a very you know tough thing to have
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to do that
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and then i knew how to leave there
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because i saw the handwriting on the
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wall and in a another year they had sold
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sacks marshall fields have been bought
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by dayton hudson and thimbles was closed
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so they got out of retailing so i had
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three job offers and one my wife you
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know thought was pretty exciting to be
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head of ferragamo usa but uh i'm not a
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big tall great looking italian and so i
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don't think they were going to make me a
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partner
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and then i call bob suslow again you
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know and just asked his advice because
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he knew all three companies he said just
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wait a minute and that's when bill
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kellogg who became my partner and who i
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had known since 1977 we had been friends
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and and that's they were saving the
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third partnership for me
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but i had to be kind of released from my
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contract from badass because badass was
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staying as a partner also when when we
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bought the company from then they kept
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mistaking it
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and so i had to go and this gentleman's
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name was hank for gone he's the one that
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fired all of us and i i had to have
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dinner with him and we talked about his
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his about what he's done in his life and
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everything and then at the end i said
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hank i got great news for you i'm going
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to be your partner and he said what do
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you mean i said i'm going to be a big
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partner in kohl's you're a partner and
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kohl's will work together he says you're
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under contract to us you can't do that
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so i remember saying to him because he
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wasn't my friend i said well you can
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have me as a great partner or i'm going
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to work as hard as i can one of these
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other jobs as a tough competitor you
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have your choice and i left
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and bob called and bill called and i
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called what happened is he got a little
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pound of flesh we bought the copy of
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september and i couldn't start till
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october you know
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so that's uh how it happened and at that
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time kohl's was 39 stores
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doing about 280 million and losing money
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right
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something had happened to kohl's it kind
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of started out as a value department
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store but then because gimble's was a
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competitor and owned also by battis
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kimble's milwaukee they decided they
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brought somebody in from target to make
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it a mini target well you know you don't
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need a mini target so fortunately
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actually as it turned out for us we had
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kohl's had a couple of bad years you
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know year and a half for bad sales and
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profits down so nobody wanted to buy us
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so we were able to buy it at a
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relatively good price and then batter
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stayed in as a partner so if i could ask
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a quick question what was your
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assessment
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of what needed to be done
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to to fix the problem at kohl's
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what was the
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situation in retail in the 1980s and
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where did you see the upside for growth
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well you know there was a company called
00:08:51
mervin's who do know that company it was
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owned by well it was a separate company
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and dayton hudson bought it along when
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they had target and both and mervin's
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was this value department so it was
00:09:02
about a four billion dollar company
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and it was kind of what we aspired to
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you know hoping we could do better
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naturally but but you know of giving
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great brands at great prices uh having a
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low cost structure and so that we could
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do all these things and having a
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simplistic shopping environment so we
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had talked about that because i had
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known calls for quite a few years and
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that's what it had been and then it had
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lost that so when we walked in
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it was got a lot of problems but we
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realized that we had to change the
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merchandise and get back to what well
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better than what we were but really get
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these great brands we had things because
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we were um you know like a mini target
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you know we had food you know we had big
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candy departments we sold tobacco you
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know all things that didn't fit into
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anything we did so we had to really do a
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kind of a total changing back to the
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merchandising that we were but of course
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take it to a new level now we had a guy
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who was funny walter levy associates who
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we had known for years
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he and and he was he was a guy who could
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advise you and things and we'd use them
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at sacs and other places and we told
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them what we thought you know we came up
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with our plan let's get an outside guy
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to look at it you know they always want
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to tweak it but they said sounds great
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because it was a great need for a niche
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for a value department store and that's
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what we were some people calls the
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discount store
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but we were not i fought that very hard
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and of course we were a department store
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just
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you know we had checkout lanes
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we used the
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carts because that came from kohl's was
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basically a supermarket chain so there's
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this low-cost culture which helped me as
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the merchant because you know i could
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give great value to our customer our
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cost structure was lower than our
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competition that was a big edge to have
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what was your strategy to take goals
00:11:03
from a regional
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chain
00:11:05
to a national one how did you go about
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well i think the first thing we did was
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fix it right first thing we had to do
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was fix goals and
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we were fortunate a couple of things
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happened that that were very fortunate
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for us you know there is some luck in
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life i have to admit though we worked
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eight days a week
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you know it didn't come easy you know so
00:11:27
that's retailing but uh but true
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but what happened is gimbals went out of
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business which was our main competitor
00:11:34
was gimbals and and and bergner's at the
00:11:37
time so you lost one of your big
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competitors and most of our stores were
00:11:41
in wisconsin
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so we were without a comp one of our
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competitors so that helped us a lot and
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the other competitor wasn't the toughest
00:11:50
store to compete against i hope i don't
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insult anybody
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and then uh so that was one thing
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at the same time when gimbles went out
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of business we knew all the good people
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there because they were part of batters
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so we got some excellent merchants and
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store people
00:12:06
then a year later marshall fields was
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combined with with dayton hudson and we
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got a lot of great people from there
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within that same year mervin's had a
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texas operation but it wasn't doing well
00:12:20
and they closed it so we got people from
00:12:23
there so in a very short time we got
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people from gimbals from marshall fields
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and from mervin's to this little store
00:12:30
in milwaukee called kohl's and that was
00:12:33
a real break so we went from
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pretty
00:12:37
low talent
00:12:38
to terrific talent in a very short time
00:12:41
and then we came up with what we thought
00:12:44
what we wanted kohl's to be this value
00:12:46
department store offering great brands
00:12:48
at great prices and
00:12:51
came up with a racetrack uh look of a
00:12:54
store meaning you walked in and just
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walked around in a circle and every
00:12:58
department had frontage and
00:13:00
and what made us different in a way is
00:13:03
that in most department stores you might
00:13:05
find sportswear in three locations four
00:13:08
locations sportswear one location men's
00:13:10
one location juniors one location
00:13:12
children's one location accessories in
00:13:14
the middle so it was ease of shopping
00:13:17
and we also built we had stores
00:13:20
that intercepted the mall so you got
00:13:22
people there in and out and going home
00:13:26
and you know so made it easy for them
00:13:29
and we did a lot of advertising okay and
00:13:31
and and that was something our
00:13:33
advertising in the past was
00:13:35
not very good so we got new people
00:13:38
in that whole department we revamped it
00:13:41
and came up with you know an advertising
00:13:44
look that was exciting key items and
00:13:46
depth and and then we had a
00:13:49
merchandising philosophy
00:13:51
we saw i mean i spent my whole life in
00:13:54
in department stores and two of the big
00:13:56
weaknesses in those days
00:13:58
is that they were never in stock on
00:14:00
basics and when you had ad goods you ran
00:14:02
out of ad goods or didn't have them and
00:14:04
you would frustrate people all the time
00:14:06
so one of the things we came up with
00:14:08
that we said we'd be 90 in stock on
00:14:11
basics and you know we put in systems
00:14:13
and we did a good job of that and you
00:14:15
funded it and and you did it and when
00:14:18
you did add goods you advertised out of
00:14:20
your assortment so it wasn't like we
00:14:22
brought in special purchases
00:14:25
we advertised what we owned out of our
00:14:27
assortments and buyers knew if they
00:14:29
didn't have ad goods they'd be in my
00:14:30
office monday morning and they didn't
00:14:32
want to be in my office monday morning i
00:14:34
wasn't as pleasant when when you didn't
00:14:36
have bad goods and so realizing how
00:14:39
important it was and also
00:14:41
that we made sure our prices were sharp
00:14:43
and that people didn't undersell us
00:14:45
because we could beat their prices if we
00:14:47
had to and
00:14:49
and and and we because of our cost
00:14:51
structure
00:14:52
so then uh in two years which is amazing
00:14:55
we paid off our debt
00:14:57
one of our big partners were the simons
00:14:59
you know the simon malls which are the
00:15:01
biggest people today and they were our
00:15:03
partners because they had like seven or
00:15:04
eight of our stores and that's how that
00:15:06
happened
00:15:07
and so
00:15:09
main street do you remember when
00:15:11
federated went into bankruptcy yes
00:15:13
and so one of the companies they had one
00:15:15
of the small companies called main
00:15:17
street and they were in chicago detroit
00:15:19
and minneapolis this is exactly where
00:15:21
the simon said we should be going
00:15:24
and they had stores similar to ours but
00:15:26
much better locations federer was very
00:15:28
powerful and it was our concept of
00:15:31
merchandising you know value price
00:15:34
but they didn't understand the low cost
00:15:36
culture so they had kind of the
00:15:38
department store expenses so they didn't
00:15:40
make any money they lost money because
00:15:42
they have lower prices and higher
00:15:44
expenses
00:15:46
and but we had the chance to buy them
00:15:48
and buy them at a very good price
00:15:50
because nobody really wanted them but we
00:15:53
had to
00:15:54
vote on it and baddest because they
00:15:56
still had marshall fields at the time
00:15:59
didn't want to give us you know
00:16:01
real estate in in chicago but between
00:16:04
the simons and us we were able to we had
00:16:07
over 50 percent we bought it brought
00:16:10
morgan stanley and as a partner and we
00:16:12
had
00:16:13
slightly the majority wouldn't give them
00:16:14
the majority we said the three of us
00:16:16
want to have that because we're running
00:16:18
it and that's how the new partnership
00:16:20
happened
00:16:21
and to your question
00:16:23
then
00:16:24
uh
00:16:25
we were starting you know we had debt
00:16:27
again but in a couple of years we went
00:16:29
public and then the reason we went
00:16:31
public is so we could expand and we
00:16:33
could start to grow and we'd have the
00:16:35
money
00:16:58
you

Episode Highlights

  • J.H. Baker's Retail Journey
    From military service to retail leadership, Baker shares his path to Kohl's.
    “I graduated from the Wharton School and went into the army.”
    @ 00m 39s
    May 07, 2015
  • Transforming Kohl's
    Baker discusses the challenges and strategies that turned Kohl's around in the 1980s.
    “We had to really do a total changing back to the merchandising that we were.”
    @ 10m 00s
    May 07, 2015
  • Acquisition of Main Street
    Baker explains the strategic acquisition of Main Street stores during a pivotal time.
    “We had the chance to buy them at a very good price because nobody really wanted them.”
    @ 15m 48s
    May 07, 2015

Episode Quotes

  • Sometimes you're very lucky to have someone take an interest in you.
    How Kohl’s Carved Out a Retail Niche
  • We had incredible talent; it was a phenomenal fun time to be there.
    How Kohl’s Carved Out a Retail Niche

Key Moments

  • Mentorship Impact02:00
  • Kohl's Transformation10:00
  • Strategic Acquisition15:48

Words per Minute Over Time

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Spirit Halloween CEO on Building Year-Round Brand Equity and Loyalty
Former Levi's CEO Chip Bergh: Building a Global Brand
April 08, 2024
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55:17
Former Levi's CEO Chip Bergh: Building a Global Brand
Knowledge@Wharton Interview with Sherry Bahrambeygui
June 01, 2020
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29:36
Knowledge@Wharton Interview with Sherry Bahrambeygui
The Marketing Strategy Behind Liquid IV’s Explosive Brand Growth
January 29, 2026
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29:40
The Marketing Strategy Behind Liquid IV’s Explosive Brand Growth
White House Black Market's Brand Aims for Simple, Not Simplistic
June 05, 2013
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21:32
White House Black Market's Brand Aims for Simple, Not Simplistic
Susan T. Spencer's Briefcase Essentials for Women in Business
May 10, 2011
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16:55
Susan T. Spencer's Briefcase Essentials for Women in Business
Leadership Beyond the Bottom Line
December 24, 2013
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22:55
Leadership Beyond the Bottom Line
How Retailers Can Cope with Slowing Growth
April 17, 2017
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22:26
How Retailers Can Cope with Slowing Growth
Overstock.com CEO Jonathan Johnson Interview on Overstock.com and Bed Bath & Beyond Merger
September 27, 2023
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20:49
Overstock.com CEO Jonathan Johnson Interview on Overstock.com and Bed Bath & Beyond Merger
Eight Dollars and a Dream: My American Journey
July 26, 2017
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24:25
Eight Dollars and a Dream: My American Journey
Knowledge@Wharton Interview with Lori Ryerkerk
June 16, 2020
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26:21
Knowledge@Wharton Interview with Lori Ryerkerk