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How Kohl’s Carved Out a Retail Niche

May 07, 2015 / 16:59

This episode features J.H. Baker, former president of Kohl's, discussing his career in retail, the challenges faced at Kohl's, and strategies for growth.

Baker shares his background, starting from his education at the Wharton School and his early career at Macy's, where he gained extensive experience in various roles. He emphasizes the importance of mentorship, particularly from Bob Suslow, who influenced his career trajectory.

The conversation highlights the leveraged buyout of Kohl's in 1986, where Baker and his partners aimed to revitalize the struggling department store. He reflects on the competitive landscape of the retail industry during that time, particularly the impact of Gimbels going out of business.

Baker outlines the strategies implemented to transform Kohl's into a successful value department store, focusing on merchandising, advertising, and maintaining stock levels. He discusses the significance of acquiring talent from competitors and the importance of a strong cost structure.

Finally, Baker explains the decision to go public to facilitate expansion, detailing the partnerships formed and the vision for Kohl's growth in the retail market.

TLDR

J.H. Baker discusses his retail career and strategies that transformed Kohl's into a successful value department store.

Episode

16:59
00:00:05
our guest today is j.h baker the former president of kohl's mr baker thank you
00:00:10
so much for joining us today you're very welcome now you joined kohl's as the president in 1986. that's
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correct we did a leveraged buyout in 1986 and there were three partners uh bill kellogg john herman myself exactly
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along with financial partners naturally exactly but could you tell us a little bit about your career in retail before
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that and how it prepared you for leadership at kohl's okay i graduated from the wharton school and
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went into the army and after that i got out and i wasn't sure what i wanted to do so
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i took a couple aptitude tests and everything kind of pointed toward retailing and it's very funny my mother
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had a millinery store so when i was a young boy i used to take cash and and and bring up hats from the basement and
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stuff so maybe that's where i got started but i'm not sure that's true but
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but at least i i have in my bones and so uh i started a macy training program and uh worked my way up and stayed about
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nine years at macy's and did kind of everything and i looked back and was probably the best thing because i had
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every type of job i worked in the stores i worked on the floor worked in the stock room i was a buyer i was in store
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management so i really had the opportunity i learned a lot and it really helped me in my whole career even
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though in those days you moved a little slower everybody likes to get promoted faster but there weren't as many
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openings so people didn't leave so rapidly so it took a while to get there but but i had great training after that
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i went to a store named orbax and sometimes you get a break in life i went in as the administrative assistant
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to the president it was a gentleman called bob suslow and he became my mentor and sometimes you're
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very lucky that you have somebody that really takes an interest in you and you work very hard for him and but you learn
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so much from them and uh i learned probably in the six months it was incredible about merchandising and
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dealing with people and stuff and then i became a merchandise manager and i had three
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different areas i had started with dresses and juniors and sportswear and then bob went to famous bar in st
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louis that time it was a may company store today it's all macy's because
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macy's bought but at that time it was the premier store in st louis and probably still is but it's under macy's
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and i became a general merchandise manager and did that for a few years and then bob
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became president of saks fifth avenue and i came back to my home new york i mean i did follow him around
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and my first job there which was really interesting i was the first director of stores at saks before it used to report
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to the chairman and it wasn't really set up it was they'd have a you know meeting once a
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year they'd do the reviews but that was it and we actually regionalized sacs and
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that's what they are today it's regionalized and and uh what we did in 1977 exist today
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at sacs and most retailers so that was that was quite an accomplishment and uh was a little frustrating at times
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because none of them were involved in merchandising and i'm a merchant but we helped with that too we got
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merchants into the stores then i wanted to get back in merchandising so i became a general
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merchandise manager and i had sportswear cosmetics and juniors i don't want to say it's the glory is
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only of sax i mean i i would imagine sax will be good today but we had incredible
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talent uh people a whole group of us that became presidents and chairmans of companies and we just were picking up 20
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a day and it was it was a phenomenal fun time to be there and you know we had people like roger farah who's also a
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wharton graduate who's went on to become president of ralph lauren and now uh
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tory burch and other jobs and and bert taske had a neiman's arthur madness had
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his seers and on and on we all worked together so it was like really a phenomenal thing
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then bob took over as head of battus the whole retail division i went in to work in
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corporate which is not what i wanted to do so then i went and worked and became a head of especially store division and
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also the corporate buying and then in 1986 badis decided they wanted to divest themselves of retailing
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they're basically a tobacco company and and british american tobacco uh in in
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england and the u.s part that's how it spatus was in louisville kentucky and so at the time um
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the only thing they kept was uh sacks marshall fields and thimbles one of the i think they kept that because i had a
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three-year contract i don't know maybe they didn't want to pay me out i it's funny but i had like 400 people
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reporting to me at the corporate buying office and they were all going to be let go
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and it was a strange what happened was very strange they called us in on a sunday
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somehow women's wear daily got the news that they were going to do this but they
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never told any of us so they had to make the announcement sunday then we had to go in front of our people on monday and
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tell them this was happening before they read it in the newspaper but there was no severance set up yet you know they
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had nothing arranged so it's funny i went to my boss who ran batters retail who was also fired arnold
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harrison and and i said i'm not going to fire anybody i can keep anybody on who's
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essential i'm just going to get him jobs he said do whatever you have to do and it took me six or seven months but i
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got 98 of them jobs and so it's probably one of the best things i've done be it
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was a very you know tough thing to have to do that and then i knew how to leave there
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because i saw the handwriting on the wall and in a another year they had sold sacks marshall fields have been bought
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by dayton hudson and thimbles was closed so they got out of retailing so i had three job offers and one my wife you
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know thought was pretty exciting to be head of ferragamo usa but uh i'm not a
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big tall great looking italian and so i don't think they were going to make me a
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partner and then i call bob suslow again you know and just asked his advice because
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he knew all three companies he said just wait a minute and that's when bill kellogg who became my partner and who i
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had known since 1977 we had been friends and and that's they were saving the
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third partnership for me but i had to be kind of released from my contract from badass because badass was
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staying as a partner also when when we bought the company from then they kept mistaking it
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and so i had to go and this gentleman's name was hank for gone he's the one that
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fired all of us and i i had to have dinner with him and we talked about his his about what he's done in his life and
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everything and then at the end i said hank i got great news for you i'm going
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to be your partner and he said what do you mean i said i'm going to be a big
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partner in kohl's you're a partner and kohl's will work together he says you're
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under contract to us you can't do that so i remember saying to him because he
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wasn't my friend i said well you can have me as a great partner or i'm going
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to work as hard as i can one of these other jobs as a tough competitor you have your choice and i left
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and bob called and bill called and i called what happened is he got a little pound of flesh we bought the copy of
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september and i couldn't start till october you know so that's uh how it happened and at that
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time kohl's was 39 stores doing about 280 million and losing money right something had happened to kohl's it kind
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of started out as a value department store but then because gimble's was a competitor and owned also by battis
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kimble's milwaukee they decided they brought somebody in from target to make
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it a mini target well you know you don't need a mini target so fortunately actually as it turned out for us we had
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kohl's had a couple of bad years you know year and a half for bad sales and profits down so nobody wanted to buy us
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so we were able to buy it at a relatively good price and then batter stayed in as a partner so if i could ask
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a quick question what was your assessment of what needed to be done to to fix the problem at kohl's
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what was the situation in retail in the 1980s and where did you see the upside for growth
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well you know there was a company called mervin's who do know that company it was
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owned by well it was a separate company and dayton hudson bought it along when they had target and both and mervin's
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was this value department so it was about a four billion dollar company and it was kind of what we aspired to
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you know hoping we could do better naturally but but you know of giving great brands at great prices uh having a
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low cost structure and so that we could do all these things and having a simplistic shopping environment so we
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had talked about that because i had known calls for quite a few years and that's what it had been and then it had
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lost that so when we walked in it was got a lot of problems but we realized that we had to change the
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merchandise and get back to what well better than what we were but really get these great brands we had things because
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we were um you know like a mini target you know we had food you know we had big candy departments we sold tobacco you
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know all things that didn't fit into anything we did so we had to really do a
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kind of a total changing back to the merchandising that we were but of course take it to a new level now we had a guy
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who was funny walter levy associates who we had known for years he and and he was he was a guy who could
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advise you and things and we'd use them at sacs and other places and we told
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them what we thought you know we came up with our plan let's get an outside guy
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to look at it you know they always want to tweak it but they said sounds great because it was a great need for a niche
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for a value department store and that's what we were some people calls the discount store
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but we were not i fought that very hard and of course we were a department store
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just you know we had checkout lanes we used the carts because that came from kohl's was
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basically a supermarket chain so there's this low-cost culture which helped me as
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the merchant because you know i could give great value to our customer our cost structure was lower than our
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competition that was a big edge to have what was your strategy to take goals from a regional
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chain to a national one how did you go about well i think the first thing we did was
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fix it right first thing we had to do was fix goals and we were fortunate a couple of things
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happened that that were very fortunate for us you know there is some luck in life i have to admit though we worked
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eight days a week you know it didn't come easy you know so that's retailing but uh but true
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but what happened is gimbals went out of business which was our main competitor was gimbals and and and bergner's at the
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time so you lost one of your big competitors and most of our stores were in wisconsin
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so we were without a comp one of our competitors so that helped us a lot and the other competitor wasn't the toughest
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store to compete against i hope i don't insult anybody and then uh so that was one thing
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at the same time when gimbles went out of business we knew all the good people there because they were part of batters
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so we got some excellent merchants and store people then a year later marshall fields was
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combined with with dayton hudson and we got a lot of great people from there within that same year mervin's had a
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texas operation but it wasn't doing well and they closed it so we got people from
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there so in a very short time we got people from gimbals from marshall fields and from mervin's to this little store
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in milwaukee called kohl's and that was a real break so we went from pretty low talent
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to terrific talent in a very short time and then we came up with what we thought
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what we wanted kohl's to be this value department store offering great brands
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at great prices and came up with a racetrack uh look of a store meaning you walked in and just
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walked around in a circle and every department had frontage and and what made us different in a way is
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that in most department stores you might find sportswear in three locations four
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locations sportswear one location men's one location juniors one location children's one location accessories in
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the middle so it was ease of shopping and we also built we had stores that intercepted the mall so you got
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people there in and out and going home and you know so made it easy for them and we did a lot of advertising okay and
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and and that was something our advertising in the past was not very good so we got new people
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in that whole department we revamped it and came up with you know an advertising
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look that was exciting key items and depth and and then we had a merchandising philosophy
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we saw i mean i spent my whole life in in department stores and two of the big weaknesses in those days
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is that they were never in stock on basics and when you had ad goods you ran out of ad goods or didn't have them and
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you would frustrate people all the time so one of the things we came up with that we said we'd be 90 in stock on
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basics and you know we put in systems and we did a good job of that and you funded it and and you did it and when
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you did add goods you advertised out of your assortment so it wasn't like we
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brought in special purchases we advertised what we owned out of our assortments and buyers knew if they
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didn't have ad goods they'd be in my office monday morning and they didn't
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want to be in my office monday morning i wasn't as pleasant when when you didn't
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have bad goods and so realizing how important it was and also that we made sure our prices were sharp
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and that people didn't undersell us because we could beat their prices if we
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had to and and and and we because of our cost structure so then uh in two years which is amazing
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we paid off our debt one of our big partners were the simons you know the simon malls which are the
00:15:01
biggest people today and they were our partners because they had like seven or eight of our stores and that's how that
00:15:06
happened and so main street do you remember when federated went into bankruptcy yes
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and so one of the companies they had one of the small companies called main street and they were in chicago detroit
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and minneapolis this is exactly where the simon said we should be going and they had stores similar to ours but
00:15:26
much better locations federer was very powerful and it was our concept of merchandising you know value price
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but they didn't understand the low cost culture so they had kind of the department store expenses so they didn't
00:15:40
make any money they lost money because they have lower prices and higher expenses
00:15:46
and but we had the chance to buy them and buy them at a very good price because nobody really wanted them but we
00:15:53
had to vote on it and baddest because they still had marshall fields at the time
00:15:59
didn't want to give us you know real estate in in chicago but between the simons and us we were able to we had
00:16:07
over 50 percent we bought it brought morgan stanley and as a partner and we had slightly the majority wouldn't give them
00:16:14
the majority we said the three of us want to have that because we're running
00:16:18
it and that's how the new partnership happened and to your question then uh we were starting you know we had debt
00:16:27
again but in a couple of years we went public and then the reason we went public is so we could expand and we
00:16:33
could start to grow and we'd have the money you

Episode Highlights

  • J.H. Baker's Retail Journey
    From military service to retail leadership, J.H. Baker shares his inspiring career path.
    “I graduated from the Wharton School and went into the army.”
    @ 00m 39s
    May 07, 2015
  • Transforming Kohl's
    Baker outlines the strategies that turned Kohl's around from struggling to successful.
    “We realized that we had to change the merchandise and get back to what we were.”
    @ 09m 36s
    May 07, 2015

Episode Quotes

  • Sometimes you're very lucky to have somebody that really takes an interest in you.
    How Kohl’s Carved Out a Retail Niche
  • It was a phenomenal fun time to be there.
    How Kohl’s Carved Out a Retail Niche
  • We had to really do a total changing back to the merchandising that we were.
    How Kohl’s Carved Out a Retail Niche

Key Moments

  • Career Beginnings00:39
  • Mentorship Impact02:00
  • Kohl's Transformation09:36
  • Going Public16:29

Tension Over Time

Words per Minute Over Time

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