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Former Levi's CEO Chip Bergh: Building a Global Brand

April 08, 2024 / 55:17

This episode of Marketing Matters features Barbara Khan and Americus Reed discussing brand relevance with Chip Berg, former CEO of Levi Strauss & Company. Key topics include brand turnaround strategies, purpose-driven marketing, and the impact of cultural trends on branding.

Chip Berg shares his journey at Levi's, highlighting the brand's decline and his vision to restore its cultural relevance. He emphasizes the importance of marketing and connecting with youth to revitalize the brand.

The conversation covers Levi's approach to social issues, including gun violence and LGBTQ+ rights, and how these align with the company's values. Berg explains the decision-making process behind taking bold stances on social issues.

They also discuss the challenges of leading a brand during the pandemic and the shift towards experiential retail. Berg reflects on the importance of empathy in leadership and the need for brands to adapt to changing consumer behaviors.

The episode concludes with insights on leveraging technology and sustainability in the fashion industry, as well as the growing trend of vintage and resale markets.

TL;DR

Chip Berg discusses revitalizing Levi's brand relevance through marketing, social issues, and adapting to consumer trends.

Episode

55:17
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good afternoon everyone welcome to this
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special LinkedIn LIVE edition of our
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show marketing matters I'm Barbara Khan
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the Patty and JH Baker professor of
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marketing and I'm joined by my co-host
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America spred the Whitney M Young Junior
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professor of marketing and the brand
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identity theorist hello Americas hi
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Barber it's great to be here I'm so
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excited because you know one of the
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things we do is talk about super iconic
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Brands the brands that basically stay
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culturally relevant and that people get
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excited over and so what have we got
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today it's going to be so exciting on
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this very special live session yeah
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we're excited to have another brand guy
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here with us in the studio today and I'd
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like to introduce chip Berg who's the
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former president and CEO of Levi Strauss
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and Company where he served from
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September 2011 to January 2024 welcome
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chip hello Barbara Americus thank you
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very much for uh invi me to join you
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today excellent yeah it's really excited
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and we're thrilled to be hosting our
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featured guest here on the show today
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and later on we'll be taking live
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questions from everyone watching online
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so make sure to put your questions in
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the comments section and let's talk a
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little bit about chip because he's had
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such an incredible care Absol yes he has
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led many iconic Brands during his 45y
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year career spanning the US Asia and
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Europe he spent 28 years at PNG and
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Proctor and Gamble in the roles of
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increasing scope and complexity in brand
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management General management and
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executive leadership among the many
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accomplishments he led the creation and
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launch of Swiffer he oversaw the
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turnaround of Old Spice isn't that one
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of your favorite Brands absolutely and
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he was the first PNG executive to lead
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the iconic Gillette blades and razor
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business globally following png's 57
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billion acquisition of Gillette in 200 F
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but at Levi Strauss chip has been
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credited with leading the company's
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story turnaround and using his platform
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to take bold social stances so Chip
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after all these years what made you
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decide to retire
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now well um I'm 66 and it's been a great
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run and um you know I think uh
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leadership changes at the top you know
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10 years 12 years 13 years 14 years as a
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CEO is probably the right amount of time
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I I have the energy and um stamina I
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think that I could have done this job
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for another four or five years probably
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but you know I've been in the job for 11
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for 12 and a half years and we had an
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amazing successor who I brought into the
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company and um Michelle GS who was the
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former CEO of Kohl's and she was ready
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and I'm totally convinced that she is
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going to take the company to the next
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level so it was time to move on and and
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you know I've been out of the job I it
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was it was two months exactly
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yesterday and wow that's pretty fresh I
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know it's it's fresh um but I can
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honestly say I've been really really
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busy um I miss all of my colleagues I
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miss the fun of being at work but um I
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don't really miss the job because I know
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it's in really really good hands with
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Michelle oh that's pretty exciting okay
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so let's go back to the beginning how
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did you first get involved with Levis
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and what did the brand mean to you then
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yeah okay so um wind back the hands of
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time to sometime in the
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2010s I was running Gillette um you know
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a big Global business was about seven
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and a half billion and all of the men
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male grooming brands of PNG including
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Old Spice um so it was about a 7.5
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billion dollar Global business and I was
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actually in China at a leadership team
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meeting I had my whole leadership team
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over in China and I got a call from a
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head hunter who I knew uh and I had
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gotten several calls for other CEO
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opportunities and she said I think I've
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got something you might be interested in
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ey roll right you know um and I was like
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okay what is it and she said what do you
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think about
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Levis and the words out of my mouth were
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oh wow it was a completely different
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reaction than any of the other calls
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that i' had gotten for a CEO
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opportunity and you know what flooded
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through my mind were two things one some
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of the Vivid memories I had as a kid my
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brand experiences with Levis and and we
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can talk about that um and then the
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other thing is you know I travel all
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over the world in in my prior job and I
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lived in Asia for seven years um and
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everywhere I went you saw Levis and Levi
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stores and um you know I thought at the
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time that this was probably a 10 billion
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dollar business and it wasn't until I
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started really digging into what was
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going on at L that I discovered it was
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you know about a $4 billion business at
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the time and um so anyway so um I do
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like to say everybody has a Levi story I
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started doing homework on the company um
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and uh you know the bottom line was the
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company peaked in 1996 at 7 .1 billion
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in sales and then the next 5 years saw
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massive shareholder value destruction as
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revenues deteriorated from 7.1 to uh
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about4 billion doar and then the next
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decade the
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2000s the company just kind of bumped
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along between four and 4.2 4.3 billion
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dollar in in revenues I have two grown
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boys who today are uh 41 and uh 36 when
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they were teenagers they never had owned
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a pair of Levis it wasn't even in their
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consideration set so I went back to kind
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of my days as a kid when I was going
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into seventh grade I asked my mom to
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drive three Towns over so I could get a
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pair of Levis to go to Middle School
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right because only the cool kids were
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Levis right that's knows cool kids Co
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kids cool kids kids and I'm a brand guy
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and so my whole hypothesis was if we
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could make the brand what it was when I
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was a kid
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that would turn the brand around and
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that would turn the company around
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because the brand is 85% of the
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company's Revenue so the going in
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hypothesis was the fundamental issue
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here is a branding issue and if we can
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make the brand cool again put it back at
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the center of culture have it resonate
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with youth with young people again um
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that that would turn the business around
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well let's talk about that so that's a
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pretty that's one thing to say it's
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quite another thing to actually do so
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you want to make the brand cool like
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what was your first instinct how do you
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make a brand cool well there there were
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a bunch of other kind of fundamental
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issues with the company the first thing
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was we had to start marketing the brand
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again so during the dark days you know
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as the company's revenues tumbled um we
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had piled up a mountain of debt um so we
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were $4 billion in
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revenues uh earning about uh $300
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million before tax profits
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and our our um debt level was over $2
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billion our our debt ratio was 5 to1 we
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were one notch above junk bond
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status um that's what's brought down a
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lot of retailers and and you know and at
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the end of the day the balance the
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strength of the balance sheet is
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everything and our balance sheet was a
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constraint we were actually spending
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more money on interest payments when I
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joined than we were in marketing in
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advertising the brand globally
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globally right and so the first you know
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so to put the brand back at the center
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of culture we had to start marketing it
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again and to start marketing it again we
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had to clean up our balance sheet so
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there there were steps that we needed to
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take in order to set the conditions for
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success to rebuild the brand so then let
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me just dig in on that a little because
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what you're saying is you're under this
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massive amount of debt and your solution
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is to spend more money right yeah so and
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so what do I need to do to spend more
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money I need to pay down the debt to
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free up all that interest interest
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expense that we were spending to invest
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that back in the brand building and so
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that's fundamentally what we did I mean
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the company weird things perverse things
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not weird perverse things happen to
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companies that don't grow for 15 years
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we got
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fat we had you know vice presidents not
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managing any people we became like a
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bank and and you know when people aren't
00:09:01
getting their bonus every year um the
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only way you move ahead financially is
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to get promoted so the only way to get
00:09:07
promoted is surround yourself with poor
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performing people so that you look good
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and and so there were lots of
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organizational issues and um anyway uh
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uh we were fat and there was clearly an
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opportunity to restructure the company
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simplify things and um free up a lot of
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cash to pay down the debt and then begin
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investing back in the brand and so we
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did that we went through a big
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restructure in 2013 or so uh and in 2014
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we really started to seriously invest
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back in marketing we also had to fix the
00:09:42
marketing that was another thing but um
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we can talk about that too well let's do
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that let's because that this is
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marketing matters and what we really
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want marting does matter the brand here
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really did matter thanks for that non we
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appreciate that now so that's
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interesting the first thing you did did
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you had to be you had to do control you
00:10:01
had to do restraint you had to get you
00:10:03
know cut the fat out of the system BR
00:10:05
discipline back Financial discipline you
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know and yeah brought 28 years of PNG
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marketing discipline too so and that's a
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conservative brand it's an open-minded
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brand but it is also conservative Back
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to Basics kind of idea and and we took
00:10:20
marketing at Levis Back to Basics Back
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to Basics we were going to test our
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advertising we were going to prove that
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it was going to work we were going to
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put money behind it we were going to run
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heavy up tests if the heavy up tests
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worked we were going to expand the heavy
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up tests and that's part of how we built
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it over the the ensuing couple of years
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okay so that was the first year that's
00:10:40
what you were doing and then you started
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taking money and investing in BR so the
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first thing is make sure you manage your
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costs and your debt the second thing is
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don't let that not let you invest in a
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brand because you can imagine both kinds
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of things either you spend too too much
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and you're a mess so then you've got to
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rain it in but then you can't be raining
00:10:58
things in so much that you don't
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continue we were spending money in
00:11:02
marketing we were just not spending it
00:11:04
well and spending it on things that were
00:11:06
growing the business so redirecting what
00:11:08
we were spending into things that were
00:11:10
going to work yeah yeah I I'm want to
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unpack that just a little bit Barbara
00:11:13
chip so you said this there were there
00:11:15
was this period in time where kind of
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things went dark um and the brand sort
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of lost its cultural relevance and so we
00:11:22
have to start now cut cost and this I
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really invest in brand because brand is
00:11:25
an asset just like you were saying chip
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so when when you when those eyes awoken
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to like okay we have to become
00:11:31
culturally relevant again what what was
00:11:33
your what was your TR what did you look
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at at the difference in culture across
00:11:37
that time period that says okay now we
00:11:39
need to kind of fit into this
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conversation this new cultural
00:11:42
conversation what were the trends what
00:11:44
were the things that were different that
00:11:46
were from the earlier times where the
00:11:48
brand was really built strong in that
00:11:50
cultural relevance where there are
00:11:51
things you could see where it's like we
00:11:52
need to kind of be in these spaces or
00:11:54
having these types of conversations how
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did that look yeah I mean I went back
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you know you would all do the same thing
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any really good marketer we go
00:12:03
back but but we about all kinds of
00:12:06
things but you know actually doing this
00:12:08
the best the best way to try to figure
00:12:10
out your way forward is go back to what
00:12:12
worked in the past right so you know
00:12:14
pull out the historical reel look at the
00:12:16
advertising that worked to build the
00:12:18
business to build the brand from the 70s
00:12:21
and 80s and 90s and what were the what
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were the big things that this brand did
00:12:26
that worked really well and there were
00:12:29
some insights there music was really
00:12:32
important uh not being too serious about
00:12:34
ourselves was really important some of
00:12:36
our best advertising had a little bit of
00:12:38
a nod and a wink to it was really
00:12:40
important it was about younger people
00:12:42
there was a little bit of sexual
00:12:44
attraction or sexual attension if you
00:12:46
want to call it that that always works
00:12:48
in advertising and so um uh and then we
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had some very very iconic um campaigns
00:12:55
that we ran during the hey days um the
00:12:59
501 blues is a very very famous campaign
00:13:02
it was music and it was all about
00:13:04
product and um and so our advertising
00:13:08
when I joined the company was it was
00:13:11
dark it was almost like film Noir it was
00:13:14
it was almost too intellectually
00:13:16
interesting stimulating and it wasn't
00:13:18
really connecting with the consumer so
00:13:20
let me just before you continue on that
00:13:22
just that's how did they go so far wrong
00:13:25
if they had such a rich Legacy how did
00:13:28
they get to the point where you had to
00:13:29
undo it I I you
00:13:32
know I think when you when you're really
00:13:34
really successful you start resting on
00:13:36
your Laural and and and not just from a
00:13:39
marketing standpoint I think this was
00:13:40
true companywide you kind of begin to
00:13:43
believe your own press reports and and
00:13:45
think that when you're successful
00:13:48
nothing will go wrong and um you know
00:13:51
when we were 7.1 billion in sales you
00:13:54
know one of the things that caused us to
00:13:56
decline to 4 billion over a couple of
00:13:59
years we lost our biggest
00:14:01
customer and um and it was Hubris at the
00:14:05
end of the day and I think huis is kind
00:14:07
of the the kiss of death to an
00:14:10
organization and um and it's one of the
00:14:12
things over the 12 years that I was
00:14:14
there you got it you know when you wake
00:14:16
up in the morning if you're not the
00:14:17
fastest one running somebody's going to
00:14:19
get you yeah right so Art of War and um
00:14:23
and so this notion of really continuing
00:14:25
to stay hungry continuing to stay humble
00:14:29
and you know not believe in your own
00:14:30
press reports forever um I think was
00:14:33
really really important but there was a
00:14:35
degree of arrogance or huus to our
00:14:38
marketing and it was kind of
00:14:41
intellectually really interesting and I
00:14:43
could see how they got to it but if you
00:14:46
go back to the principles of what the
00:14:48
marketing was that really connected with
00:14:50
consumers in our best days it was
00:14:52
missing all of it there wasn't you know
00:14:55
there wasn't it wasn't music it wasn't
00:14:57
dance it wasn't culture it wasn't really
00:15:00
culturally relevant and um and so that
00:15:03
was key to it um I also I had this big
00:15:07
Insight one of the things I love to do
00:15:09
especially in the early days and we can
00:15:11
talk about some of the other things I
00:15:12
did during the early days but but in you
00:15:14
know I big Global business I was out in
00:15:17
the markets and traveling to the markets
00:15:18
and one of the things I love to do is
00:15:21
consumer research when I'm in a market
00:15:23
right and a consumer inome or a consumer
00:15:26
shop along and there are a lot of people
00:15:28
who say Ah that's qualitative you're
00:15:30
never going to learn anything doing that
00:15:32
but when you do one or two every market
00:15:35
and you're doing 20 markets a year 25
00:15:39
markets a year right that adds up and at
00:15:41
some point you begin to get a gut feel
00:15:44
but I think it was my first trip in this
00:15:47
job um to India and I was in Bangalore
00:15:51
and we had recruited I was going to do
00:15:52
an inhome with a a young woman 27 28
00:15:55
years old she had been specifically
00:15:57
recruited because she was a denim head
00:15:59
she owned lots of denim such a thing
00:16:02
that's an identity oh yeah heads the
00:16:04
denim heads are out there and they're
00:16:05
out there and you know who you are um uh
00:16:09
but uh she was a denim head and she
00:16:11
owned like uh about 10 nine eight nine
00:16:14
10 pairs of of jeans and so she was
00:16:16
recruited specifically for that reason
00:16:19
she didn't know who I was or why we were
00:16:21
there but she um figured it out that we
00:16:24
were talking about denim but anyway you
00:16:26
know when you do these in homes it's an
00:16:28
hour and I had my it was myself the
00:16:30
country manager we had a translator
00:16:32
although this woman spoke perfect
00:16:34
English turns out she went to University
00:16:36
in the UK um and uh we had somebody from
00:16:40
the research firm as well and and uh you
00:16:43
know you start really wide tell me about
00:16:45
yourself and how do you spend your time
00:16:47
where do you work blah blah you start
00:16:48
really really wide and then over the
00:16:50
course of the next 40 or 45 minutes you
00:16:52
kind of zoom into Denim and start
00:16:55
talking about Denim and what brands do
00:16:56
you buy and why do you buy them and da
00:16:59
and then in the last 10 minutes or so I
00:17:01
was like can we can we see your jeans
00:17:04
and she's like yeah come on in and she
00:17:06
brought us into her bedroom opened up
00:17:08
her wardrobe pulled out the jeans the
00:17:11
the facilitator asked if she could lay
00:17:12
them out on the bed we had her
00:17:14
specifically lay out Levis as the last
00:17:16
two and then we went kind of one by one
00:17:19
what do you wear these for and she had
00:17:21
like all the premium Brands he clearly
00:17:24
you know was a very very well-traveled
00:17:26
um individual
00:17:30
well she had you know Hudson she had
00:17:32
paig she had a lot of the premium Brands
00:17:34
guest and uh uh and we went one by one
00:17:38
like what do you wear these for what do
00:17:39
you wear these for and the last two were
00:17:41
Levis so we got down to the second to
00:17:43
last pair and she said well these are my
00:17:45
go-to jeans you know when I'm meeting my
00:17:48
girlfriends for a cup of coffee in the
00:17:49
mall in the mall this is what I'll wear
00:17:52
if I'm going out shopping on a Saturday
00:17:54
these are my go-to casual jeans it's
00:17:56
like okay what about these s
00:18:00
gets a little wispy and she says well to
00:18:04
be honest I don't even wear those jeans
00:18:06
anymore because they don't fit me but
00:18:08
those are the genes that I have when I
00:18:10
went to University and she said all my
00:18:13
memories of University Are In Those
00:18:15
Jeans oh wow and then she said I get
00:18:17
goosebumps every time I tell this she
00:18:19
said you wear other jeans but you live
00:18:22
in Levis o and I was like that's it that
00:18:27
is the idea I've been saying all along
00:18:29
everybody's got a Levi story and it is
00:18:32
about living your life in Levis and and
00:18:35
that became the selling idea behind our
00:18:37
advertising and it's now 10 years later
00:18:39
and we are still using that line that's
00:18:41
incredible I love that idea chip because
00:18:43
I think that sometimes we start chasing
00:18:46
these hardcore quantitative types of
00:18:49
surveys because they feel like they're
00:18:51
really Val valid and objective and we've
00:18:53
got a number here's an average of
00:18:55
something or whatever but what I love
00:18:57
about what you're talking about is that
00:18:58
sort of like go out into the into the
00:19:00
wild like Jane Goodall you're out in the
00:19:02
jungle and you have to study these
00:19:04
people because I don't think that
00:19:05
insight about I live in these Levis
00:19:06
jeans would have come out in a Ser yeah
00:19:08
or that I'm not going to throw those
00:19:09
jeans away because they're they've got
00:19:11
the memories of college or university
00:19:14
power that's brand that that is that
00:19:17
speaks to the power that this brand has
00:19:19
so once you had that big Insight did you
00:19:21
then test it before you went out with it
00:19:23
yeah we developed that so I switched
00:19:25
agencies because the other agency
00:19:27
refused to move off of
00:19:29
um off of the prior idea and I had asked
00:19:32
them for an alternate campaign um and I
00:19:35
knew this agency well because they
00:19:37
worked on one of my Brands when I was at
00:19:39
PNG and I knew the team pretty well and
00:19:41
they just refused and so why did they
00:19:43
refuse that's I think they were really
00:19:45
committed to it and they thought it was
00:19:48
the right decision yeah they thought it
00:19:49
was right even though it wasn't moving
00:19:50
the needle on the business and I just
00:19:53
asked for an alternate campaign I didn't
00:19:54
say I was going to run the alternate you
00:19:56
know so anyway so we had this idea now
00:19:59
live in Levis and we went to a new
00:20:02
agency and they developed advertising to
00:20:04
it we tested it it tested great we put
00:20:07
it on air we tested it in a heavy up
00:20:10
heavy up Market we were spending about
00:20:12
four and a half% of revenues in
00:20:13
marketing at that point I'm a cpg guy
00:20:16
where 15% was kind of like the norm I
00:20:19
was like oh my God what an opportunity
00:20:21
here and you know we're now spending in
00:20:23
the neighborhood of seven or S and a
00:20:25
half% of Revenue and I still think
00:20:27
there's opportunity for us but the the
00:20:30
heavy ups were working and we just kept
00:20:32
putting more money behind it so let's
00:20:35
just switch gears a little bit because
00:20:37
the couple things we want to talk about
00:20:39
one of the things that's I am a
00:20:40
Storyteller I warned you no no I'm happy
00:20:43
to hear these stories that was that the
00:20:45
what we want to hear but I'm also
00:20:46
curious because I know Levis and you've
00:20:49
embraced social issues um and so one of
00:20:52
the things is rebuilding the brand the
00:20:54
other thing and we've talked about this
00:20:55
a lot what's the role of a brand in
00:20:58
purpose driven marketing and social
00:21:00
issues um important issues like voting
00:21:04
lgbtqia plus equality immigration how do
00:21:08
you I mean those are polarizing issues
00:21:10
how do you decide what to embrace and
00:21:12
what not yeah so um first of all the
00:21:15
first thing I will say is this is not
00:21:17
about me this is about the power of the
00:21:19
platform and the role of CEO at at P at
00:21:23
at Levis and um and part of the reason
00:21:27
the board wanted an internal successor
00:21:29
was that they understand how we process
00:21:33
all this and how we decide what issues
00:21:35
we're going to stand for and which ones
00:21:36
were not many many of the issues that
00:21:39
we've taken stands on predate me so
00:21:42
lgbtq we we've been doing this for a
00:21:45
long long time and our brand is very
00:21:48
very tightly associated with it and it
00:21:51
is part of who we are um uh others are
00:21:55
new though and um you know so take a
00:21:58
stand on ending gun violence in the US
00:22:01
specifically is a relatively new issue
00:22:04
for us and and and we had a very
00:22:08
thorough uh process to vet it number one
00:22:12
and to to work it with our board of
00:22:14
directors because there's a governance
00:22:15
role that they've got to play here to
00:22:17
make sure that we don't do something
00:22:19
stupid and um and so let's take ending
00:22:24
gun violence as an example
00:22:26
um how did we get into to it we have 250
00:22:31
or so at the time this was 2016 we have
00:22:34
roughly 250 stores or so in the United
00:22:37
States and our store managers came to me
00:22:40
saying we're concerned people are
00:22:43
walking into our stores brandishing a
00:22:45
gun in open car in open carry states
00:22:49
right and they were like we've got a
00:22:51
company policy you can't bring a gun to
00:22:53
work you can't bring a weapon to work
00:22:55
and and when somebody walks in with a
00:22:57
gun you don't know if they're a good or
00:22:58
bad guy and you you worry about the
00:23:00
safety of your own employees and other
00:23:03
customers in the store and so this was
00:23:06
right before the election in 2016 and we
00:23:09
were kind of we went to school on what
00:23:11
have other retailers done and there were
00:23:13
a couple like Starbucks and Target who
00:23:15
had already kind of been the tip of the
00:23:19
spear on this one to some extent and and
00:23:21
their approach was to publicly just put
00:23:25
out a notice don't bring a gun into our
00:23:29
and they took some blowback for it
00:23:31
anyway we we were going to hold off
00:23:33
until after the
00:23:34
election until a gun went off in one of
00:23:37
our stores jeez so a guy was in the
00:23:40
dressing room oh dear had a gun in his
00:23:43
pocket and when he took his pants off he
00:23:46
the gun went off literally shot himself
00:23:48
in the foot so but you know it could
00:23:50
have been an employee it could have been
00:23:52
you or me or one of our kids right it
00:23:55
could have been you know some innocent
00:23:57
bystander and that was it that that was
00:24:00
the straw that broke the camels back so
00:24:02
we put this letter out that had already
00:24:04
been pre-written and cleared with the
00:24:06
board um that you know please don't
00:24:09
bring a weapon into our store and of
00:24:13
course there was huge blowback um I had
00:24:16
unmarked police in front of my dear
00:24:18
house for a while I had death threats um
00:24:22
but uh but it was the right thing to do
00:24:24
and so that got us into this debate and
00:24:27
then um then the Parkland shooting
00:24:30
happened in 2018 and um and I was like
00:24:34
look we're already in for
00:24:36
this let's go big or go home because
00:24:39
this is now an issue that youth were
00:24:41
mobilizing behind and the Parkland youth
00:24:44
in particular if you remember back after
00:24:46
that they were mobilized and it's like
00:24:50
let's let's Empower them and so again
00:24:53
working with the board you know we were
00:24:55
going to do a one-year program the board
00:24:57
was like no if we're going to do this
00:24:58
we're going to do it big go big or go
00:25:00
home and so we committed to a fouryear
00:25:03
we created a special fund of a million
00:25:06
doll to fund these most mostly youth
00:25:10
organizations we also worked with gord's
00:25:12
you know Gabby gord's organization which
00:25:14
is really committed to ending gun
00:25:16
violence in this country and the Sandy
00:25:18
Hook promise um so other organizations
00:25:21
as well that are committed to to
00:25:23
changing the legislation we're not about
00:25:24
repealing the Second Amendment or
00:25:26
anything else this is about Common Sense
00:25:29
legislation that would reduce the risk
00:25:32
of gun violence in this country that is
00:25:34
broadly supported by weapon owners by
00:25:36
the way um and um and it has been
00:25:40
something that we've been committed to
00:25:42
now for more than four years and we're
00:25:43
going on I think year six or seven now
00:25:47
and uh we played a role um when the
00:25:50
legislation passed Congress uh about a
00:25:52
year or year and a half ago we mobilized
00:25:55
the business Community I got 500 plus
00:25:58
CEOs to sign a letter to Congress to
00:26:01
pass that legislation and I've been told
00:26:03
the business Community played a role in
00:26:06
getting that legisl it's the first
00:26:07
meaningful gun legislation in over 10
00:26:09
years the last thing I will say about
00:26:11
this again I'm a Storyteller sorry it's
00:26:13
great we know that this is one of the
00:26:16
biggest issues with young people in this
00:26:18
country it's second to climate change
00:26:21
you know think about the kids that go to
00:26:23
school they're practicing lockdown
00:26:24
drills my daughter went to Elementary
00:26:27
Middle School in San Francisco they
00:26:29
practice lockdown drills more than they
00:26:31
practice earthquake
00:26:33
drills and and it's a reality that you
00:26:36
know now almost 60% of um almost 60% of
00:26:41
adults know somebody who has been
00:26:43
affected by gun violence so it's
00:26:45
touching everybody so what I I just want
00:26:47
to summarize what I'm hearing you say so
00:26:49
you haven't taken on a lot of issues you
00:26:51
don't take on the flavor of the month
00:26:53
issue but you take on an issue like
00:26:56
lgbtq in the beginning that's really
00:26:58
really true to your brand the second
00:27:00
issue was true to your retail
00:27:01
environment and then you go big or go
00:27:04
home I mean so then once you go into it
00:27:06
you double down on it exactly and so if
00:27:09
there's negative m i mean I imagine
00:27:11
everything you're saying sounds really
00:27:12
positive to me but if there is some
00:27:14
negative you're willing to take that
00:27:16
tradeoff because it's been very
00:27:18
thoughtful and you're going to go into
00:27:20
it with very wellth thought out reasons
00:27:23
and there is that true I mean that that
00:27:25
and you summ summarized it better than I
00:27:27
told the story actually but that that's
00:27:29
exactly right and in fact I have said
00:27:32
one of the biggest challenges we have is
00:27:34
we are known for taking these stands so
00:27:36
we get hit up for everything right can
00:27:38
you help us with this can you help us
00:27:39
with that and and if you if you stand
00:27:42
for everything you stand for nothing so
00:27:43
you it is strategic and it is about the
00:27:47
Halo that it that it provides over the
00:27:50
brand and it has to be consistent with
00:27:52
the brand and you know when you talk to
00:27:55
people about Levis they will say Levis
00:27:57
is a it it is a strong brand it is a
00:27:59
brand that is about using its authentic
00:28:01
voice it is all about empowering people
00:28:04
and so that's why voting rights
00:28:07
democracy all of that is really really
00:28:09
important when the Berlin Wall came down
00:28:11
the kids on the wall were all wearing
00:28:13
Levis that's he took a picture of that
00:28:16
yeah somebody did somebody did it's a
00:28:18
very famous picture it's a famous
00:28:20
picture I love that point sh because I
00:28:21
want to build on that a little bit and
00:28:23
take it in a little bit of a slightly
00:28:24
different direction one of the things
00:28:25
that is a theory about why you get
00:28:28
involved in purpose-driven marketing is
00:28:30
because not only does it signal
00:28:31
something to the the marketplace of
00:28:33
consumers it also signals something to
00:28:35
people you would attract as human Talent
00:28:37
can you speak on on that definitely I
00:28:39
mean when I joined the company one of
00:28:40
the things I did is I went on a
00:28:42
listening tour and I asked the top 60
00:28:44
people in the company six questions what
00:28:47
are the three things that have to change
00:28:48
you know turnaround what are the three
00:28:50
things that have to change what are the
00:28:51
three things you think we have to keep
00:28:54
what's the one thing you hope I will do
00:28:56
what's the one thing you're afraid I
00:28:57
might do what's the one piece of advice
00:28:59
you have for me and I always forget the
00:29:00
sixth question and those are five pretty
00:29:03
good questions I hope someone's writing
00:29:05
them down five great questions I sent
00:29:07
them to the every same questions to
00:29:09
everybody and then I met with the top 60
00:29:12
for about an hour and I thought it would
00:29:15
take 40 interviews to come up with a
00:29:16
clear picture no it was very very clear
00:29:18
early on but one of the things we had to
00:29:20
keep were our values interesting this
00:29:23
was people joined the company and people
00:29:26
through the worst period of time in the
00:29:28
company's history stay with the company
00:29:31
because of who we are and what we stand
00:29:33
for so the purpose of the company which
00:29:35
we talk about is profits through
00:29:37
principles um you know not being afraid
00:29:40
to take a stand on important social
00:29:42
issues that we exist and this goes all
00:29:43
the way back to Levi Strauss himself the
00:29:46
founder we're in business to do them
00:29:49
more than just make a buck for the
00:29:51
shareholder we are in business to be a
00:29:52
force for good in the world I love
00:29:54
hearing this this is so this fantastic
00:29:57
you do kind of bring tears to our eyes
00:29:59
this kind of thing is great uh so let me
00:30:02
shift gears one more time before we go
00:30:04
to our questions from our audience and
00:30:06
ask you about so you were talking about
00:30:08
2016 you know that was a really
00:30:10
polarizing time a lot of this issues
00:30:12
were coming up and Brands were grappling
00:30:14
with that and you gave us in my mind a
00:30:17
very strong strategy for how to deal
00:30:19
with it and what to what's noise and
00:30:20
what's signal and what your Brand's
00:30:22
going to mean but right after 2016 you
00:30:24
might remember 2020 came and yes kind of
00:30:28
do remember
00:30:29
that so like you know leading a brand
00:30:33
during uncertainty like that and we were
00:30:35
talking about that previously you don't
00:30:37
know from one year to the next how to
00:30:39
deal with that how do you do that from a
00:30:41
leadership position deal with all this
00:30:43
uncertainty that the pandemic help Ed
00:30:46
you so I I will say you know as as a CEO
00:30:49
CEO for 12 and a half years the last
00:30:52
four or five years were so much harder
00:30:56
than the first five or six years years
00:30:58
even you know first five or six years I
00:30:59
was dealing with a broken business and
00:31:01
doing a turnaround but the uncertainty
00:31:03
that the pandemic caused um it changed
00:31:07
me as a leader and I I think leadership
00:31:09
has fundamentally changed as a result of
00:31:11
the pandemic too you know when you're
00:31:13
zooming into somebody's home and they're
00:31:15
sitting at the kitchen table with their
00:31:17
5-year-old pulling on their sleeves
00:31:19
because they can't get on iPad to zoom
00:31:22
into
00:31:23
school I developed a completely
00:31:26
different sense of empathy and and a
00:31:28
sense of responsibility for every single
00:31:31
person in the company and so when the
00:31:34
pandemic happened um you know funny
00:31:38
story uh uh the day before we went into
00:31:41
lockdown we were talking about testing
00:31:44
remote work for three days straight
00:31:47
globally and I was getting push back
00:31:50
from the it organization because they
00:31:51
weren't sure if we would break the it
00:31:53
pipes if everybody stayed home and
00:31:56
worked remotely and the next day we were
00:31:58
all locked down wow wow and um a little
00:32:00
bit of luck and skill well no we had no
00:32:03
idea if it was going to work so better
00:32:05
to be lucky than good is what I would
00:32:07
say but um but uh yeah I mean all of our
00:32:11
stores closed you know I look back um we
00:32:15
went into lockdown I think it was March
00:32:16
20th and uh we thought it would be till
00:32:19
the end of March we thought it was going
00:32:21
to be two weeks and we had stores closed
00:32:24
for 6 weeks 8 weeks 10 weeks 12 weeks
00:32:26
depending on the part of the world but
00:32:29
one we we declared a couple of things
00:32:30
very very early on principle based
00:32:33
number one we're going to put our
00:32:35
employees first the safety of our
00:32:37
employees especially our Frontline
00:32:39
employees we had 3200 stores globally
00:32:42
was going to be first and foremost that
00:32:44
we weren't going to jeopardize health
00:32:46
and in fact we rolled out um health care
00:32:49
benefits to our part-time workers during
00:32:53
here in the US specifically because
00:32:54
around most other parts of the world
00:32:56
they're taking care of but here in the
00:32:58
US hourly workers are not and so we put
00:33:02
a safety net in place um second um we we
00:33:07
did have to lay people off during the
00:33:09
pandemic because the business we
00:33:12
normally did call it one a. half billion
00:33:14
dollar a quarter that first quarter when
00:33:17
we went into lockdown we did 500 less
00:33:20
than $500 million of Revenue and that
00:33:24
was all the two and a half or three
00:33:26
weeks before we before we went into
00:33:28
lockdown we did basically nothing the
00:33:30
rest of the the rest of the quarter a
00:33:31
little bit e-commerce business but that
00:33:33
was it MH and we didn't know if this was
00:33:36
going to last for another two weeks or
00:33:39
another two years and so we had a
00:33:42
billion dollars of cash we went from
00:33:43
being really dead heavy to we had a lot
00:33:46
of cash on our balance sheet and I was
00:33:48
like that's enough for about a year
00:33:51
let's go get another half billion
00:33:53
dollars and we went and got more got
00:33:55
more cash on the balance sheet
00:33:57
immediately cuz we didn't know mhm and
00:34:00
um so it was a terrifying it was the
00:34:02
first time in my career I didn't have a
00:34:04
forecast we had high medium and low
00:34:06
that's all we that's that's how
00:34:08
scenarios that's how we were running the
00:34:10
business through the pandemic but um but
00:34:13
the other thing we did we said um we
00:34:15
wanted to exit the pandemic stronger and
00:34:18
we said we wanted the brands to exit the
00:34:21
pandemic stronger and so the the team
00:34:25
this was not my idea most of the good
00:34:27
successes that we've had by the way were
00:34:28
not my idea um I've been I've been
00:34:33
blessed with a with really a great team
00:34:36
and uh but the team came up with this
00:34:38
idea of doing a 501 concert series
00:34:43
streamed from the living room of
00:34:45
different artists right and at 5:01 p.m.
00:34:51
every day reinforced brand to reinforced
00:34:53
the brand it was the 501 concert series
00:34:56
we were going to do it for 30 days it
00:34:58
was such a success we extended it and I
00:35:00
think we did it for about three months
00:35:02
dur during most of the lockdown really
00:35:05
and some amazing things happened but but
00:35:08
people were connecting with the brand
00:35:10
online with these music series and it
00:35:13
was just it was magic so the creativity
00:35:16
that came out during the pandemic was
00:35:18
something that I just wanted to bottle
00:35:20
up and say let's not lose this well you
00:35:22
know there's theory about that to be
00:35:24
most creative you need
00:35:26
constraint I 100% and in fact in our
00:35:29
Innovation program we use sustainability
00:35:32
as a constraint like all of all of our
00:35:36
all of our Innovation is wrapped around
00:35:38
sustainability how do we reduce the use
00:35:40
of water in manufacturing how do we get
00:35:42
rid of the chem the harsh chemicals in
00:35:44
our supply chain and when we land on
00:35:47
Solutions we then open source them to
00:35:50
our competitors because it's like this
00:35:52
isn't going to be a compe you know we
00:35:53
use less water it's not a competitive
00:35:55
Advantage nobody cares right right but
00:35:57
if we all use a lot less water that's
00:35:59
going to be really good for planet
00:36:00
planet Earth right and so we've open
00:36:03
sourced these things that's that's
00:36:05
that's a great marketing strategy in my
00:36:07
opinion that's very good so we're almost
00:36:10
ready to ask other people questions but
00:36:12
I do want to ask like what do you think
00:36:14
was the highlight of so you talked about
00:36:16
difficult Years starting and then you
00:36:19
know the pandemic if you had to look
00:36:21
back what would you say was some of the
00:36:23
things you're the most proud of or the
00:36:24
highlight of your Reign the first would
00:36:27
probably be my team and even as I've
00:36:30
transitioned the leadership now over to
00:36:32
Michelle most of my team is still in
00:36:33
place and and I think that's speaks to
00:36:36
the quality of the succession with
00:36:37
Michelle and really setting her up for
00:36:40
Success um and and really not just my
00:36:43
executive team but but pretty broadly um
00:36:46
because it is at the end of the day a
00:36:48
CEO you're making the Strategic calls
00:36:51
you're making Capital allocation
00:36:52
decisions and you're making people
00:36:54
decisions and so it really is about the
00:36:57
team and and that's probably the thing
00:36:58
I'm most proud of but you know we took
00:37:00
this company and this brand that was
00:37:02
very very broken the brand today by all
00:37:04
metrics is stronger than it's ever been
00:37:08
um and in fact when we were working on
00:37:09
succession the board was like just go
00:37:11
find another U we're real happy with you
00:37:13
just go find another you and I was like
00:37:15
no we don't need another me we need
00:37:18
somebody with a different skill set the
00:37:19
brand is now broke the the brand that
00:37:22
was broken is now F it's strong it's
00:37:24
strong you know strongest it's ever been
00:37:26
right we're now now becoming a retailer
00:37:29
45% of our revenues roughly is in our
00:37:32
own direct to Consumer business it was
00:37:34
20% when I joined we need somebody who's
00:37:37
got really strong retail and digital
00:37:40
chops and that's what we went out and we
00:37:43
got we hired Michelle Goss who was CEO
00:37:46
of Kohl's she joined the company as
00:37:49
president she kind of took a step
00:37:50
backwards in her career to come and
00:37:52
learn the business learn the company
00:37:54
learn the
00:37:55
brand form her agenda while she's still
00:37:59
not in the chair so that day one when
00:38:01
she got in the chair she's ready to go
00:38:03
and so succession is also something I'm
00:38:05
really proud of and then probably the
00:38:07
third thing is we took the company
00:38:09
public back in 2019 2019 and um why did
00:38:14
you do that yeah there are a lot of
00:38:15
people who were like why would you take
00:38:17
a company public um and actually we went
00:38:21
public is dual class so the family still
00:38:24
has voting controls so in some ways we
00:38:26
have the benefits of being private
00:38:28
but we so why did we go public and it's
00:38:30
a good question number one we're in
00:38:32
fifth and sixth generation and now even
00:38:34
Seventh Generation shareholders in in
00:38:37
the family okay so it's been a long time
00:38:39
since Levi Strauss and when you do the
00:38:42
math every generation owns fewer and
00:38:45
fewer shares because they all have kids
00:38:47
and they're splitting them right so
00:38:49
right today our single largest
00:38:50
shareholder holds about 18 family
00:38:52
shareholder holds about 18% prior to the
00:38:55
IPO and um
00:38:58
you know you play that forward in a in
00:39:01
another generation or two the largest
00:39:02
shareholder will hold 2% so number one
00:39:04
it's a question of how do you govern a
00:39:06
company when the largest shareholder is
00:39:08
2% it's kind of hard right um it's
00:39:11
already difficult because we already
00:39:13
have about 100 family members and then
00:39:14
when you add in their trust and other
00:39:16
legal entities a lot more than that uh
00:39:18
two is uh some family members wanted
00:39:21
liquidity and three I firmly believe
00:39:24
that being a public company we will
00:39:25
never have a 15year stretch of
00:39:27
underperformance because the public
00:39:29
investors won't stand for it it will
00:39:32
make us a better company more strategic
00:39:35
more disciplined and that kind of
00:39:37
underperformance for an extended period
00:39:39
of time would never happen as a public
00:39:40
company it's pretty interesting that's
00:39:42
amazing all right well I guess now we've
00:39:45
gone right up to the time it's to hear
00:39:47
from our wonderful audience um and if
00:39:49
you have any burning questions for chip
00:39:51
as you can hear he's pretty well he
00:39:53
thinks pretty clearly he's a very strong
00:39:55
and and admirable leader I mean I've
00:39:57
been very impressed so drop um your
00:40:00
comments in the comment section below
00:40:02
and we'll do the best we'll do our best
00:40:04
to address them and ask them up chip so
00:40:06
let's start out with the first question
00:40:08
here um given the challenges we're
00:40:10
seeing in the retail industry now today
00:40:13
with big retailers shutting down or
00:40:15
going bankrupt how would you begin to
00:40:18
approach reshaping the industry what do
00:40:20
you think needs to change and what I
00:40:21
thought was pretty interesting just to
00:40:24
put build on this is you said you were
00:40:26
moving from a brand to a retailer I mean
00:40:28
that's that's a pretty interesting
00:40:29
statement the brand is still really
00:40:31
important to be clear but um you know
00:40:33
one of the Strategic choices we made 12
00:40:36
and a half years or yeah 12 and a half
00:40:38
years ago right right after I became CEO
00:40:42
we made three big strategic choices to
00:40:44
turn the company around to drive our
00:40:46
profitable core to expand for more we
00:40:48
were underdeveloped in women's we were
00:40:50
underdeveloped in tops there were lots
00:40:52
of places within our portfolio where we
00:40:54
had meaningful Room to Grow
00:40:55
International was underdeveloped
00:40:57
so that was expand for more and the
00:40:59
third Big Choice was to become a leading
00:41:01
worldclass Omni Channel retailer um and
00:41:04
that was driven by walking through
00:41:08
department stores mostly here in the US
00:41:11
but also around the world where I'd walk
00:41:14
in I won't name names but you walk in
00:41:17
and see the Levis padn it looked like a
00:41:19
nuclear bomb went off there and and like
00:41:22
I'm a brand guy that's our brand are you
00:41:25
kidding me that's how you're treating us
00:41:27
right and in our own store we can
00:41:29
control the consumer experience we can
00:41:32
give them an experience we can give them
00:41:34
a differentiated assortment and we also
00:41:37
get the benefit of having that onetoone
00:41:39
relationship so DTC really became
00:41:42
strategic for us 12 and a half years ago
00:41:44
and we've gone from 20% of revenues to
00:41:46
45% of revenues on a revenue base that's
00:41:49
40% bigger so it's been really Central
00:41:52
to the turnaround and I do think you
00:41:55
know there's a big question what's the
00:41:57
the role of department stores in today's
00:41:58
world right you know Macy's got an
00:42:00
activist in their stock Nordstrom's
00:42:02
trying to go private again I mean right
00:42:05
there is kind of we're not even talking
00:42:06
about JCP and ser we're not yeah and JC
00:42:09
Penney had to go private um you know so
00:42:12
there there's real challenges in
00:42:14
departments and and to be clear they're
00:42:16
all customers and we I I love them all
00:42:18
and they they play a very important role
00:42:20
from a distribution footprint standpoint
00:42:23
for us but um but the the being nibbled
00:42:28
away at from all edges right you've got
00:42:30
Amazon and the you know the online
00:42:33
retailers you've got the off pricers
00:42:35
you've got the club stores and then
00:42:38
you've got vertical retail for a lot of
00:42:41
the brands that they've got in their
00:42:42
stores and if you want to buy Levis
00:42:44
what's the point of going to Le to
00:42:46
Macy's if you can go to a Levi
00:42:48
store well the point is if you're buying
00:42:50
Levis and 10 other things Macy's may be
00:42:53
a good stop right but so that I and I'm
00:42:56
picking on Macy's that's unfair there is
00:42:59
kind of we're hopeful about Tony spring
00:43:00
I I'm very I'm Tony's amazing and I'm
00:43:03
hopeful I'm hopeful for all of these
00:43:05
customers and they do play an important
00:43:07
strategic role for the company and for
00:43:09
we don't reach that many places with 275
00:43:13
stores in the United States we need that
00:43:16
wholesale distribution and we need that
00:43:18
Chopper in wholesale so it is but it is
00:43:22
clearly for us our strategic priority is
00:43:25
you know to continue to double down we
00:43:27
had an investor day almost two years ago
00:43:30
and we said we want to get it to 55% of
00:43:32
our Revenue so that is so let me ask you
00:43:35
uh and then I'll get back to their
00:43:36
questions I just want to build on this
00:43:37
for a second so you're you're believing
00:43:39
in physical retail as well as Omni
00:43:41
Channel retail and what a lot of people
00:43:43
are saying is that physical retail is
00:43:45
changing to experiential um in fact Tony
00:43:49
Springs has said that he's going to
00:43:50
bring retail theater into Macy's so do
00:43:54
you have a a a stance on that on what
00:43:57
that means customer experience I yes I I
00:44:00
and I agree with it um I do think there
00:44:02
has to be a differentiated reason for
00:44:04
why a consumer would walk into a Levi
00:44:06
store versus ordering it online from
00:44:07
Amazon it's a lot easier to just order
00:44:09
it online from Amazon and have it show
00:44:10
up on your doorstep and it is about
00:44:13
things that you can get done in the Levi
00:44:15
store that you can't get done online uh
00:44:17
it's about a differentiated assortment
00:44:19
but we've got tailor shops in almost all
00:44:21
of our Mainline doors where you can buy
00:44:23
a trucker jacket and then you can
00:44:25
personalize it you can customize so that
00:44:27
it is yours and and and that is a little
00:44:30
bit of retail theater but it's also an
00:44:33
experience they'll also by the way bring
00:44:35
in your old jeans and if you've got you
00:44:36
know holes or rips or you want to tailor
00:44:39
it a little bit differently our tailor
00:44:41
are amazing and they will do that you
00:44:42
know what that is to me that's the
00:44:44
Genius Bar in apple it it's our version
00:44:47
of The Genius Bar and we've talked about
00:44:48
it that way it is exactly that and and
00:44:51
it gives the consumer a reason to come
00:44:53
in I mean there have been sororities
00:44:55
that have held parties at the at the the
00:44:57
at the tailor shop I mean there are um
00:45:00
but it it provides that theater and that
00:45:03
that opportunity for personalization and
00:45:05
customization but beyond that you have
00:45:07
to have the service I think the
00:45:09
assortment needs to be somehow
00:45:11
differentiated as well so our Mainline
00:45:13
stores T tend to have higher tier
00:45:15
products than what you would find in
00:45:17
most wholesale customers um more tops
00:45:20
you know a different mix of men's and
00:45:22
women's so all of that you know help
00:45:25
brings people in the store it brings
00:45:27
into the store but it also helps build
00:45:28
the brand I mean it is a big brand
00:45:30
building thing for us too so a question
00:45:33
that we got from our audience is how has
00:45:35
Levi started to leverage emerging
00:45:37
Technologies such as AI virtual reality
00:45:40
augmented reality yeah and um and I
00:45:43
would say we jumped on the AI data
00:45:47
science stuff before gen AI um uh uh
00:45:52
pretty early and um we've we've had hits
00:45:56
and misses I guess is what I would say
00:45:58
we built a pretty decent sized
00:46:00
organization over a relatively short
00:46:02
period of time um and have had some
00:46:04
successes and in using um AI in
00:46:08
particular for um assortment planning uh
00:46:12
uh uh demand and Supply matching things
00:46:15
like that um a lot of back office use as
00:46:18
well and using bots in back office to
00:46:21
kind of speed the processing of a lot of
00:46:23
transactional type data um the Gen AI
00:46:27
stuff we've we've had multiple
00:46:29
experiments going on um some have worked
00:46:33
some haven't it's I I would say it's
00:46:35
still early days um we have we have made
00:46:40
Investments during my time uh some of
00:46:43
which I wish I could kind of take back
00:46:45
honestly because I think we got I think
00:46:47
we got you know we fell in love with the
00:46:49
idea faster than you know and again my
00:46:52
middle name is discipline and we were a
00:46:54
little bit undisciplined I think in
00:46:56
going after chasing a lot of the
00:46:59
potential Big Ideas here we invested a
00:47:01
lot in trying to completely automate our
00:47:05
supply planning and and I would say that
00:47:08
was not successful and we spent a lot of
00:47:10
money on it and um uh so instead of
00:47:14
testing small and kind of scaling as we
00:47:17
should have done uh we we got we fell in
00:47:20
love with the idea faster than the idea
00:47:22
proved itself interesting and and we
00:47:24
wound up you know making some mistakes
00:47:26
along Way live and learn um I do think
00:47:29
you know if if
00:47:31
you're if you're running a business and
00:47:33
you're not experimenting with this stuff
00:47:35
and getting experience right you know
00:47:37
you're missing the boat on something
00:47:38
because this is this is clearly where
00:47:41
the puck is going and and I think the
00:47:43
real challenge is where do you begin
00:47:45
testing it and getting experience with
00:47:48
it and is it with consumer facing
00:47:51
activities supply chain related
00:47:53
activities marketing related you know a
00:47:56
lot of companies are using using it for
00:47:57
media and media planning and things like
00:47:59
that and I I think you have to be really
00:48:01
really thoughtful about where and how
00:48:04
you get started we had we got a few
00:48:06
questions that are kind of pedestrian
00:48:08
I'll say but it's kind of interesting
00:48:10
one of them came in is like what's the
00:48:12
right way to wash jeans oh that's that's
00:48:15
the reason is because I'm going to my
00:48:18
grave I said at a sustainability
00:48:20
conference it was one of the first
00:48:22
conferences I did this was probably like
00:48:23
2012 or
00:48:25
23 and denim heads back to Denim heads
00:48:29
they will tell you never put a pair of
00:48:31
jeans in the washing
00:48:32
machine and we did a life cycle analysis
00:48:35
of a pair of jeans and jeans consume a
00:48:38
lot of water 50% of the water that it
00:48:42
consumes are in your washing machine and
00:48:45
mine um and we here in the United States
00:48:48
tend to wash our jeans almost every
00:48:50
single time we wear them right which is
00:48:53
really wrong and we wash them in the
00:48:54
washing machine which is really wrong
00:48:57
and so I famously said and and this I
00:48:59
still get on my news feed it gets picked
00:49:02
up like every week every week I was
00:49:06
misquoted what I what I said was you you
00:49:10
don't need to wash your jeans in in a
00:49:13
washing machine um I said these what I
00:49:17
actually said was these genes have never
00:49:18
seen the inside of a washing machine the
00:49:21
headline the next day was Levi CEO never
00:49:24
washes his
00:49:25
jeans but seriously the way I wash my
00:49:28
jeans and this is also you know found
00:49:30
its way around the world I I either hand
00:49:33
you know kind of spot clean them if I
00:49:35
spill some spaghetti sauce or something
00:49:37
I I'll spot clean them and if they get
00:49:40
really really gross I'll wash them the
00:49:42
way I did when I used to backpack around
00:49:45
Europe which is hop in the shower oh you
00:49:48
wear them hop in the shower soap them
00:49:50
down rinse them off take them out take
00:49:53
them off now now the headline is going
00:49:54
to be you take show goes into shower
00:49:58
fully dressed trust me trust me there is
00:50:00
a YouTube video on
00:50:03
this there is a YouTube video on this uh
00:50:06
somebody some reporter tested it and and
00:50:09
actually that but all seriousness you
00:50:12
know products made out of cotton um some
00:50:15
some might have some stretch and have a
00:50:17
little bit of polyester or something but
00:50:19
the fibers in Cotton get destroyed in a
00:50:21
washing machine and so if you want to
00:50:23
really especially especially if you buy
00:50:26
quality denim like really good quality
00:50:28
denim you just don't want to throw them
00:50:30
in a washing machine you're going to
00:50:31
destroy them much faster than they would
00:50:33
last otherwise if really took care of
00:50:35
them and by the way it's better for
00:50:37
planet Earth yeah right who knew this is
00:50:40
going to be our best
00:50:42
question really cap I told you I was a
00:50:47
Storyteller well I have one more
00:50:49
question and then we're gonna have to
00:50:50
end this has been just amazing but this
00:50:53
is I'm curious that a lot of things
00:50:55
we'll teach this is my question question
00:50:56
but a lot of things we'll teach in
00:50:58
marketing is new marketing is not about
00:50:59
customer acquisition getting everybody
00:51:01
on the planet to buy a new pair of jeans
00:51:04
but it's to go deeper into your customer
00:51:06
base and send them more which sell them
00:51:08
more which suggests that you move off of
00:51:11
jeans into other kinds of product
00:51:13
categories or rather Services you cross
00:51:15
sell and you build out your portfolio
00:51:17
that way do you have a feeling about
00:51:19
that as a philosophy yeah well last time
00:51:21
I checked we don't have 100% market
00:51:23
share so the first opportunity that
00:51:25
we've got is to continue to build market
00:51:27
share and um you know I do think we live
00:51:30
in a world where there is overc
00:51:31
consumption and I think that is going to
00:51:33
change I think the sustainability thing
00:51:35
and young consumers being really
00:51:37
concerned about planet Earth and they
00:51:40
know when they buy something from Fast
00:51:42
fashion and wear it three times and
00:51:44
throw it in the in the garbage it winds
00:51:46
up in the landfill and this is not good
00:51:48
for planet Earth I think consumers are
00:51:50
going to buy fewer things that are more
00:51:51
versatile that are better quality that
00:51:53
are going to last longer if that plays
00:51:55
right to our sweets spot that's what
00:51:58
we're all about quality never goes out
00:52:00
of style and um so I do think over time
00:52:04
you know our aspiration and Michelle is
00:52:07
taking this to the next level her
00:52:09
ambition is to drive this brand to be a
00:52:11
denim Lifestyle brand and that's a
00:52:13
pretty big house to live under we got to
00:52:16
get it right you know first on men's and
00:52:18
women's bottoms then men's and women's
00:52:20
tops but where it goes from there um you
00:52:22
know remain remains but thinking about
00:52:25
other revenue streams is really really
00:52:26
important um and in today's world you
00:52:29
know we're we're testing uh Levis
00:52:31
secondhand. comom where people can buy
00:52:34
secondhand Levis wow so um you know all
00:52:37
of these could be yeah it's a science
00:52:39
project right now it's really really
00:52:40
small but it could be you know another
00:52:43
Revenue stream down the road for us okay
00:52:45
we got one last question that we got to
00:52:47
hit because people are really interested
00:52:48
in this can you talk about vintage and
00:52:51
resale with regard to Levis there are a
00:52:53
lot of people who are now into thrifting
00:52:56
and second hand what's your take on I
00:52:57
have no data to back this up but we're
00:53:00
the number one brand in thrift stores
00:53:02
because people love the hunt and and and
00:53:05
vintage is something I've got a
00:53:07
15-year-old daughter and she's really
00:53:08
into it and um and vintage is something
00:53:12
that authenticates the value of this
00:53:15
brand oh interesting think about it yeah
00:53:17
you'll pay $250 for a 25-year-old
00:53:20
trucker jacket that you could buy brand
00:53:22
new for $150 you'll pay a premium for
00:53:27
something that's 25 years old it says
00:53:29
the value of this brand and so um we are
00:53:33
really big in th stores and that's why
00:53:35
we started up this secondhand um online
00:53:38
business but it it also it does
00:53:41
authenticate the power of this brand and
00:53:44
the fact that people want to hunt for
00:53:46
something that is 20 or 25 years old
00:53:49
that there's added value in that yeah
00:53:52
yeah well that that's incredible yeah
00:53:54
you got one more question or well I mean
00:53:55
it's a sociological IAL exercise it's
00:53:57
it's your your point chip about the
00:53:58
brand being so nostalgically powerful
00:54:01
and iconic it's just one of these things
00:54:03
in human nature that says you know I
00:54:05
want to seek out those things that that
00:54:07
have this sort of value that's
00:54:08
associated with it and you're willing to
00:54:10
hunt I like the experience piece right
00:54:12
because sociological right I mean
00:54:14
exactly exactly very very cool well that
00:54:16
brings us to the end of today's LIVE
00:54:19
edition of marketing matters thank you
00:54:21
so much for being here chip it's really
00:54:23
been inspirational it's been so much fun
00:54:25
thanks a lot thank you we'd also like to
00:54:28
thank our producers Deion Simkins Dana
00:54:30
cash Aaron Tran and our knowledge at
00:54:32
Wharton team and we thank you to
00:54:34
everyone who tuned in to contribute to
00:54:36
this live engaging conversation be sure
00:54:39
to follow us on LinkedIn And subscribe
00:54:42
to our newsletter at knowledge. Warton
00:54:45
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00:54:49
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00:54:51
today tune in live every Wednesday from
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00:55:02
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132

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Episode Highlights

  • Chip Berg's Journey
    Chip Berg shares his journey from CEO of Levi Strauss to retirement, emphasizing the importance of leadership changes.
    “After 12 years, it was time to move on.”
    @ 02m 14s
    April 08, 2024
  • Reviving Levi's Brand
    Chip discusses how he aimed to make Levi's culturally relevant again by reconnecting with its roots.
    “If we can make the brand cool again, that would turn the company around.”
    @ 06m 28s
    April 08, 2024
  • The Power of Brand Stories
    Chip emphasizes the emotional connection consumers have with Levi's, highlighting the phrase 'live in Levis.'
    “That became the selling idea behind our advertising.”
    @ 18m 37s
    April 08, 2024
  • Levi's and Social Issues
    Levi's embraces social issues like LGBTQ+ equality and gun violence, reflecting its brand values.
    “This is about the power of the platform.”
    @ 21m 15s
    April 08, 2024
  • Pandemic Leadership
    The pandemic changed leadership dynamics, emphasizing empathy and employee safety.
    “I developed a completely different sense of empathy and responsibility.”
    @ 31m 26s
    April 08, 2024
  • Going Public
    Levi's went public to ensure governance and liquidity for family shareholders.
    “Being a public company will help us govern better.”
    @ 39m 24s
    April 08, 2024
  • The Role of Physical Retail
    Physical retail is evolving into an experiential space, offering unique customer experiences.
    “There has to be a differentiated reason for why a consumer would walk into a Levi store.”
    @ 44m 00s
    April 08, 2024
  • Sustainability in Fashion
    Consumers are shifting towards fewer, high-quality purchases that last longer.
    “I think consumers are going to buy fewer things that are more versatile.”
    @ 51m 50s
    April 08, 2024
  • Vintage and Resale Trends
    Levi's is thriving in thrift stores, showcasing the brand's nostalgic value.
    “We are really big in thrift stores and that’s why we started up this secondhand business.”
    @ 53m 33s
    April 08, 2024

Episode Quotes

  • Everybody has a Levi story.
    Former Levi's CEO Chip Bergh: Building a Global Brand
  • Hubris is kind of the kiss of death to an organization.
    Former Levi's CEO Chip Bergh: Building a Global Brand
  • Let’s go big or go home!
    Former Levi's CEO Chip Bergh: Building a Global Brand
  • We’re in business to be a force for good in the world.
    Former Levi's CEO Chip Bergh: Building a Global Brand
  • The brand is still really important to be clear.
    Former Levi's CEO Chip Bergh: Building a Global Brand
  • Quality never goes out of style.
    Former Levi's CEO Chip Bergh: Building a Global Brand

Key Moments

  • Cultural Relevance11:20
  • Opportunity20:19
  • Brand Purpose20:54
  • Gun Violence Stance22:24
  • Pandemic Challenges30:41
  • Public Offering38:14
  • Omni Channel Retail41:01
  • Sustainability Practices48:20

Words per Minute Over Time

Vibes Breakdown

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